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Lough Key is frequently referred to as the "Jewel of the
West". From the more westerly Lough Gara, the Boyle River flows into Lough Key,
before continuing its journey through to the mighty River Shannon.
If
the first waters from Lough Gara had a voice, they must have said "We will rest
here a while, and leave an everlasting memory". The waters rested, filled an
almost circular valley, 3 miles wide, created 33 beautiful islands, and became
known as Lough Key (Loch Cé). It is our beautiful "Jewel of the West" and star
attraction of the area to later become Port-na-Carraige, Rockingham and
subsequently Lough Key Forest Park.
Writers, poets, artists and later,
photographers, have chronicled and recorded the history, legends and images of
Lough Key for nearly 1000 years. Despite such attention, the Lough Key area
still seems shrouded in mystery, and at times a forgotten place of beauty,
sensibly protected from the short-term promises offered by the increasingly
avaricious world of commercialism. The Fitzpatrick song, "The Isles Of Lough
Key" beautifully captures one man's pen-picture of the area:
"The
emerald green valley lay smiling,
'neath the shade of a beautiful moon,
As
I wandered along to the hillside,
Which cradles the grey Rock Of
Doon.
And from there I gazed down enchanted,
On a scene that was
heaven to me,
For the angels must surely have fashioned,
Those lovely
green Isles Of Lough Key.
Lough Key with your silvery moonlight,
With
you background of woods and green braes,
I'm wondering why bards have
forgotten,
To sing e'en one song in thy praise.
Perchance you prefer
your soft slumbers,
And resent this intrusion of mine,
On your sweet
tranquil sleep of deep silence,
Lough Key with your islands
divine".
Back in around 1041, when the Annals of Lough Key were
being compiled on Castle Island, and when the Annals of Boyle were being
compiled on Trinity Island, little did those scribes think we would be eternally
grateful to them for their immense contribution to the history of this region.
Both documents are now preserved in Trinity College, Dublin, and tell of
countless battles fought around the lake's shores and on its islands, as
powerful local chieftains, such as the McGreevy and MacDermot, fought off
attackers.
Castle Island:
To this day, many
wonder why the island is also referred to as "The Rock". Questions remain as to
its origin. Some claim that the island is man-made, and was created on top of a
large rock that projected above the waters of the lake just 100 metres from the
south eastern shore of Lough Key. This theory says the island was created as an
inhabited location or lake dwelling that could be easily defended against human
and animal attackers, something similar to the Crannóg dwellings on neighbouring
Lough Gara.
At some stage, a settlement was created on the island and a
wooden structure built there. An early report says it was struck by lightning in
1187 and burned down.
A castle built later featured in the final act of
the conquest of Connacht in 1235, by Richard de Burgo whose army included 500
mounted knights. The castle came under siege, first by a raft-mounted catapult,
and then by fire ships made of wood from nearby Ardcarne. A combination of rocks
and flames proved too much for the castle garrison, forcing Cormac MacDermot,
King of Moylurg to surrender.
The castle is mentioned frequently in the
ancient annals, being a focus for both fighting and partying. A poem addressed
to Tomaltach-an-einigh MacDermot (King of Moylurg 1421-58) tells the story of
the Hag Cé, after whom the lake is called, and who used (or abused) Cormac
MacDermot's (1218-44) hospitality by staying on the Rock for a full year, and
laid upon the MacDermot family the obligation of perpetual hospitality. Brian of
the Carrick, Chief 1585-92, is reported to be last head of the clan to live on
the island.
A poem by Eochaidh O hEoghusa, written about 1600, laments
the castle's uninhabited and ruinous condition:
"...Thy bright fair form
has changed,
gone are thy gold-rich dwellings
from thy fair comfortable
long-walled enclosure,
nor does the lime-white adorning of thy frontal
remain..."
In later times, during the 19th century, Lord Lorton employed the
renowned English architect John Nash to design and build a folly castle on top
of the earlier castle walls as one of the adornments to the estate whose
centrepiece was Rockingham House
Isaac Weld, writing in 1832, describes
as part of "the castle proper" 2 rooms, one above the other, each 36 feet by 22
feet, with walls of over 7 feet thickness. It is not clear whether this refers
to part of the original castle, or the later construction. The folly castle,
used as a summerhouse, was gutted by fire shortly before the Second World
War.
I feel closeness to Lough Key, to Castle Island and the Boyle
area in general. It calls me back, it holds me here, and I am happy to be
captivated by the location, its beauty and its people. There is probably no one
who can resist the charm and poignancy of an Irish Love Legend. Ours is based
around Boyle, Lough Key and Castle Island.
The Legend of Úna
Bhán
MacDermot was chieftain of Moylurg, a Celtic Kingdom in North Roscommon.
He had a beautiful daughter, Úna Bhán - so named because of her long blonde
hair. His neighbour was Tomás Láidir Costello, a good and sincere man, handsome
and strong.
Úna Bhán and Tomás Láidir fell in love but MacDermot would not
allow the relationship because he believed Tomás Láidir was not good enough for
his daughter. Tomás Láidir was banished from the area and MacDermot had Úna Bhán
confined on Castle Island, Lough Key, then called "The Rock".
Úna Bhán went
into a deep melancholy and was dying of grief. Tomás Láidir, hearing of the
situation went to see her, and when he left, vowed that if MacDermot did not
send a message for him to return before he reached the river, he would never go
back. The messenger was sent, but did not reach Tomás Láidir until after he had
crossed the river. Being a man of honour Tomás Láidir was unable to break his
vow and did not return.
Úna Bhán died of a broken heart and was buried on
Trinity Island, Lough Key. In his grief Tomás Láidir used to swim to the island
every night to keep vigil at her grave. Eventually he got pneumonia, and
realising that he was dying requested that MacDermot allow him to be buried
beside Úna Bhán. His request was granted and so the two lovers were belatedly
united.
Tradition says that two trees grew up over their graves, entwining
together to form a Lovers Knot, standing guard over the site.
The
Future
Apparently most of the islands of Lough Key are now in private
ownership. Much of the land on the foreshore of Lough Key is also in private
ownership. In these early years of the 21st century, there is a great emphasis
on commercialism. The temptation to develop the entire Lough Key area is
understandable. With shifts in world trade it would appear prudent to develop
the region using its greatest asset, namely its natural beauty and its tourism
potential. Undeniably, man's involvement in natural settings can enhance, but
equally there many examples of our destructive capability.
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